Cooking from the Garden: Berry-Rhubarb Crisp

I’m a huge fan of crisps. They are quick to put together, endlessly adaptable and feature butter and brown sugar prominently — what’s not to love?

Since we are getting toward the end of the rhubarb season and the weather has cooled off, I wanted to use some rhubarb from the garden and pair it with the delicious strawberries I bought from a local grower. My rhubarb is very red and very tart, so I paired it with two kinds of berries for a delicious dessert.

Berry-Rhubarb Crisp

For the filling: Toss together 4-5 cups mixed fruit, all cleaned and cut to about the same size. I used 1 cup diced rhubarb, 1 cup frozen blueberries and 2 cups strawberries. Mix the fruit with 2/3 cup sugar, 1/4 cup flour, 2 tsp. cinnamon and 2 TBSP cream (optional, but lovely). Place in a 1 quart baking dish. (If you are using all rhubarb, increase the sugar to 1 cup.)

Topping: Melt 3 TBSP butter and mix with 1 cup oats, 1/2 cup brown sugar, 3 TBSP flour and 3 TBSP ground flax seed. (The flax is totally optional, but I used it. You could replace it with wheat germ or a bit more flour.) Mix together, then add salt to taste and 1 tsp cinnamon. Mix, then place on top of the fruit, pressing down on the topping with the back of a spoon so it’s not too crumbly.

Bake in a 350 degree oven for about 1 hour. When the fruit juices are slowly bubbling, it’s done. Let it cool and enjoy with whipped cream, ice cream or have it with yogurt for breakfast!



Seed Ordering Season

Last year I discovered some inner truths about growing vegetables.

  1. My tomatoes grow better in the sites of former compost piles than they do in containers, and that has everything to do with my watering habits rather than soil.
  2. I grow cucumbers much better than I eat pickles.
  3. Nine raspberry plants — Best. Investment. Ever.
  4. Green beans are great off the plant, but not that good frozen.
I'm not the only one who grows cucumbers better than they eat them.

With these truths in mind, I made my seed order recently. I will be growing several varieties of tomatoes because, if I put them in the ground and water them well, they are a joy to eat fresh and to preserve. At a Garden Writers Association event in September, the nice folks at Botanical Interests gave the attendees lots of seeds, so from that stash I will be growing Principe Borghese, a good tomato for drying. I also have seeds from Renee’s Garden for Mandarin Cross, a orange colored Japanese slicing tomato and Isis Candy, an heirloom cherry tomato. I also ordered Brandywine tomato seeds from Seed Savers Exchange in Iowa to round out the selections. These are the ones I’ll be growing from seeds. Depending on space and enthusiasm, I may pick up a few starts in a reliable variety, such as Early Girl or Celebrity.

On advice from Eric Johnson, a Northern Gardener writer and fellow blogger, I’m going to try growing potatoes in 2012. Eric asserts (in the March/April issue of the magazine) that homegrown potatoes are 10 times more wonderful than homegrown tomatoes — so, I ordered Red Norland and Yellow Finn potatoes Irish Eyes Seeds (love the name!) in Idaho.  I’m looking forward to learning some potato-growing tricks this year and enjoying potato deliciousness in the summer and fall.

As in the past, I’ll be growing sugar snap peas (Amish Snap), pole beans (Climbing French and Ideal Market), winter squash (Walthum Butternut) and Minnesota Midget melons, all from Seed Savers.

I will not be growing cucumbers. Nada. Zip. None.

Fitting all this in may require some expansion into new garden territory or some containers. Either way, it’s hard not to be a little excited about this summer’s vegetable garden — even if it is still months away.


The Northern Heartland Kitchen

A Gardener’s Reading, 22 of 30

By Beth Dooley (University of Minnesota Press, 2011)

I mentioned in an earlier review that I was hoping to get a copy of The Northern Heartland Kitchen, a new seasonal, local cookbook from the University of Minnesota. Well, lo and behold, in the most recent batch of books I picked up from the Minnesota State Horticultural Society for review, was a copy of Beth Dooley’s cookbook. Dooley has been writing about food in Minnesota for many years, and if you read Mpls/St. Paul magazine, you are probably familiar with her restaurant reviews.

In this book, Dooley marches through the seasons, creating recipes and meals with ingredients most likely to be local in markets in the North. So fall is filled with delicious ideas for using squash, apples, cranberries, duck and kale, while spring boasts recipes for lamb, arugula and asparagus.  While the ingredients used are local, the recipes span the globe with Dooley offering an Asian-inspired Chicken Noodle Soup, Scandinavian Baked Beans and Spring Vegetable Curry as well as Midwest standards such as Corn Relish, Apple Crisp and Beer-Can Chicken.

The front of the book provides information on how to eat more locally by shopping farmers’ markets and joining a Community-Supported Agriculture farm. I haven’t had a chance to cook from the book yet, but an interested to try her recipe for Ox-Tails in Stout and the recipe below for a winter salad of carrots and parsley:

Carrot and Parsley Salad

For the salad, combine: 7-8 organic carrots, grated (3.5 cups); a large bunch parsley, finely chopped; 1/3 cup dried cranberries. Mix the dressing: 1 large clove garlic, mashed, 2 TBSP raspberry (or other fruit) vinegar, 2-3 TBSP vegetable oil, 1/2 tsp salt, 1 TBSP smashed fennel seeds. Whisk dressing together, combine with carrot mixture. Cover the bowl and let the salad rest in the refrigerator for a few hours or overnight so the flavors blend.

Not Exactly News: Home-Grown Tastes Better

A recent survey by the National Restaurant Association reports that restaurant chefs have caught on to something home gardeners have known for a long, long time. Grow-your-own produce tastes best.

According to the survey released today, gardens are the “top trend” identified by more than 2,000 chefs nationwide. While it’s tempting to be a little cynical and note that with Michelle Obama planting a garden and local becoming a branding term,  restaurant gardens may be a fad. But the chefs have realized something home gardeners have also known for awhile: grow-your-own produce is often less expensive than store produce. For many restaurants, planting a garden is cheaper than paying shipping, especially for somewhat high-end ingredients or fragile, but compact plants such as herbs.

As a northern gardener, I know that it requires some technology and investment to grow your own through the winter here–hoophouses and hydroponics, for example. But some of the restaurants mentioned in this article are not from California or other 10-month gardening states. They are from Michigan and Washington, D.C. and New York City — though I doubt the restaurants are saving much money growing vegetables in hydroponic towers in Manhattan. These chefs don’t grow all of their own produce, but they grow enough to affect the quality of what they are cooking, as well as their costs.

I’m not familiar with any Minnesota restaurants that use produce from their own gardens, except for the restaurant at the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum. (If you know of some others, post a comment — I want to eat there.) But, I know many restaurants get their vegetables from local farmers — which is another great garden and food trend for eaters and growers.

Bruschetta Variations

Bruschetta with Garlic and Goat Cheese

With the tomatoes starting to come in, I made bruschetta and eggs for dinner last night. Bruschetta is toasted Italian bread with a topping, often including tomatoes and olive oil, that is typically served as an appetizer.  Last year, I made Bruschetta a la Julie and Julia after watching a movie about Julia Child and the blogger who cooked every recipe in Mastering the Art of French Cooking. (The bruschetta scene is positively mouth-watering.) Since then, I’ve seen bruschetta recipes with everything from bacon to peaches in them. The variation I tried last night is not quite traditional, but close

Bruschetta with Garlic and Goat Cheese

For the topping, cut three to four ripe tomatoes in smallish pieces, and mix with 3 tablespoons olive oil, 2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil, salt and pepper to taste. You can add a splash of vinegar, if you like things tart. Let this mixture sit out on the counter for a half hour or so to blend the flavors.

Toast slices of Italian bread. We used a whole grain version, but use whatever you like as long as it is sturdy. Rub each slice lightly with a clove of garlic. Spread with chevre or another goat cheese. Top with topping and enjoy!

This was very good, but whoo-boy, the garlic I used was very fresh from our local CSA farm and pungent. After dinner mints required.

Dealing with Abundance

This sign — spotted while riding my bike around town — made me laugh. Faced with an abundant harvest, who hasn’t wanted to give it all away?

Cucumbers are the crop du jour, and I know I’m not the only gardener with more cucumbers than they know what to do with. I’ve already made a big batch of bread-and-butter pickles, but there are more things to do with cucumbers than just preserve them. Here are two easy, delicious ways to use cukes with abandon.

Easy Marinated Cucumbers

This recipe works really well with cukes that are a little large. Peel a large cucumber, cut off the ends, then slice it in half length-wise. Using a spoon, scrape the seeds out of the cucumber. Slice each half into slices about 1/4 inch thick. Mix the slices in a dish with 2 tablespoons white vinegar, 1 tablespoon sugar, 1 teaspoon salt, and a big grind of black pepper. The salad tastes even better after it has rested in the refrigerator a couple of hours.

Cucumber Water

I got this recipe from one of Prevention magazine’s diet books. Even if you are not watching what you are eating, this is an incredibly flavorful summer drink, and it does calm your digestive system nicely. Peel and slice one cucumber into thin rounds. Wash and slice an organic lemon thinly. Mix the sliced fruits with 8 cups of water, 1 Tablespoon grated ginger, and a few mint leaves. Let it sit a few hours or overnight to blend the flavors.


Pickle Time

The Finished Product

Right now, the squash and cucumbers are duking it out in my back garden. I’m afraid that, without intervention, the squash — an allegedly “compact” butternut variety  — may win. In the meantime, the cukes are growing like crazy, so I’m making pickles.

While many people enjoy dill pickles, I grew up on  sweet bread-and-butter pickles made from Grandma Lahr’s recipe. Pickling, like any preserving project, is all about the process. That said, the number of methods and recipes I located for bread-and-butter pickles is remarkable. You can also watch lots of people making pickles over on youtube. Here’s one with a very similar recipe and process to the one I used.

My grandmother’s recipe does not call for a boiling-water bath to guarantee safety, so I contacted the Minnesota-Iowa food preservation line just to check whether that was necessary. The kind lady who answered the phone said grandma’s method, while common in her day (and I should note grandma was a public health nurse at one time and a real stickler for cleanliness and food safety), is not approved now because of the danger of food poisoning. Here’s an approved recipe for b-and-b pickles that are canned. If you are willing to refrigerate your pickles, read on:

As with any recipe, read through the whole thing before you start. Also, keep your work area scrupulously clean to prevent any stray bacteria from getting into the pickles.

Grandma Lahr’s Bread and Butter Pickles

Step 1: The Veggies

4 quarts (16 cups) thinly sliced cucumbers

1 white onion, thinly sliced

1 green pepper, thinly sliced (optional)

1 red pepper, thinly sliced (optional)

1/3 cup salt (I used Kosher)

Ice (about 1 tray)

Wash your cucumbers thoroughly, then slice your vegetables about 1/4 inch thin and layer them in bowl, sprinkling each layer with some of the salt and a bit of ice. When it is all prepped, cover the bowl with plastic wrap and weigh it down slightly. (I put a couple of Pyrex cups on top for weight.) Let it sit 3 hours. When the time is up, drain the icy, salt water off of the vegetables and put the vegetables in one large kettle or two smaller ones.

Before you start the brine, wash and sterilize (usually by immersing in the boiling water for several minutes) 8 pint canning jars. Wash and set in a separate pan or bowl 8 canning lids and 8 rings. Pour boiling water over the lids and rings to sterilize them as well. Leave the rings and lids in the hot water.

Step 2: The Brine

3 cups distilled white vinegar

5 cups sugar

3 cloves garlic (optional)

1-1/2 teaspoon tumeric

1-1/2 teaspoon celery seed

2 Tablespoons mustard seed

Mix this together, heat it to a boil, then add the vegetables. Put the heat on again and bring it to a boil. Once it hits a decent boil, turn off the heat.

Step 3: Canning

Carefully ladle the hot pickles into the hot jars to within 1/2 inch of the rim, making sure the brine covers all the veggies. Poke a knife or spatula in each jar to remove air bubbles. Wipe the jar rims with a clean cloth or paper towel, then attach the sterile lids and rings. Set them on a counter to cool. Most of the jars (5 out of 6 in my case) will seal. Store in the refrigerator for up to three months.

These pickles are incredible in tuna salad or alongside any meat sandwich.